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At Lisbons Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, where the show was staged, Griffiths came across a portrait of forgotten activist and intellectual Natlia Correia (whose collection of erotic poetry was seized by the authorities), and allowed her flirtatious skirts and binding little black dresses to steer the first third of the collection, with tight pencil skirts with jaunty pleated peekaboo hems and tops and dresses with plunging portrait necklines